As anyone with a bob will tell you, seeing short hair have its moment these past few years has been satisfying, to say the least. 

As a long-haired devotee-turned-bob propagandist, I’m unsurprised that the coolest and most modern hairstyle is converting people left and right. 

I truly believe that once you find the bob that’s right for your face shape, and figure out how to style it, short hair will change your life – and your look. 

On the flip side, picking a bob that isn’t right for your face… not good. 

An unfortunate case study in this instance is Isabel “Belly” Conklin’s bob in the finale of The Summer I Turned Pretty. Belly finds herself in Paris (or tries to), and per Girl Lore, she cuts in a dramatic new hairstyle. 

But Belly’s bob isn’t the chic French bob you might expect. It’s actually more of a lob – and I’m sorry but I hate it.

“I’d call this a blunt long bob, or a ‘lob’ for short, styled in that Italian bob way,” Bumble and Bumble stylist Ian Weglarz told Elle. “If you want it, ask your stylist for a blunt cut that hits just above the shoulders, to keep it heavy and full on the ends, with little to no layering, and style it with a round brush blowout so it’s got that bounce and movement you want.”

While this European-style bob looks excellent on some, to me, it drags down Lola Tung’s beautiful face, and thanks to the longer length in the back, looks more grown-out than deliberate. Can you imagine Belly with a blunt, mid-length bob with some of the weight on the sides taken out?! She’d be unstoppable. 

Taking the plunge and chopping off your tresses is a significant step – and perhaps a necessary one when trying to cleanse yourself of your traumatic, homewrecking past. But to me, Belly’s cut was a missed opportunity – namely, to cut in a hairstyle that shows off Tung’s stunning bone structure, and signify that Belly can finally make a good decision, even if it’s just her hair. 

Ultimately, this hair faux pas didn’t stop Belly from ending up with the love of her life (team Conrad all the way). And the good news is, if you do commit to a bob that doesn’t quite work, the beauty of hair is that it grows back. That said, there are some easy ways to ensure you choose a bob style that works with your face shape, rather than against it. 

Ahead, Sydney-based hair stylist Anthony Nader, of Raw salon in Surry Hills, shares his guide to the five most popular bob cuts, as demonstrated by some of the stylish women in the world – including how to choose the right one for your face. 

Hailey Bieber’s ‘tough bob’

Best for: oval face shape, straight hair

While she flirts with long hair every now and then, Hailey Bieber is an undeniable Bob Girl. She consistently returns to the hairstyle and has experimented with bobs of every length, but her most recognisable is what Nader calls the Tough Bob; cut at one length, without layers around the face, for a bold, strong look. 

“This haircut doesn’t mince words, so you’ve got to have an oval face shape as the symmetry is the strongest,” he tells Body+Soul. Not sure if you have an oval face? Just ask your hairdresser, says Nader. “I’d be confident in saying every hairdresser around the planet knows Hailey’s trademark cool bob, so don’t fear here with trusty hairdressers ‘not knowing’ whether it’ll work with your face shape or not. 

The beauty of the tough bob lies in its strength. “This is when the haircut has the voice of being confident and dare I say, the attitude to match,” says Nader. 

Things to consider: “The more your natural texture reflects a sheet a glass, the less work you’re going to need to do when styling, ” Nader adds. “Be mindful that the rougher the natural texture, the more work you’re going to need to do when styling with hair products and hot tools.” 

Zendaya’s flipped bob

Best for: square face, all hair textures 

Zendaya has a strong square face shape – the characteristics for which are a “forehead and cheekbones [that] are about the same width, and the jawline appears sharper as well,” says Nader. 

The best bob style for square face shapes is one that softens the angles; “The aim with this bob is not to highlight the squareness of the corners,” says Nader. “You want to ‘shadow’ the corners like Zendaya has here at this red carpet event.” 

One great way to do that is by changing up your part – adding softness and curves to balance the lines of your face. “Flip your partline over so it grazes one eyebrow…also try not to expose all four corners [of the face],” says Nader. 

He also suggests trying to style the hair so it follows the shape of the face. “I actually call this ‘hair hugging’,” he says. “It frames the face beautifully so it appears now more oval, which is the most ideal face shape to have” for a bob. 

Sydney Sweeney ‘s old money bob

Best for: heart-shaped face, wavy hair 

The rich, old-money bob has been exceedingly popular over the few years, thanks to the ‘stealth wealth’ or ‘quiet luxury’ renaissance. Heart shaped faces work well with this style, and are characterised by a forehead that is wider than the jaw and chin. 

“For anyone wanting a bob that matches your heart shape, the key here is to soften the arches, which then creates a visual balance that draws the gaze up and down and not side to side,” says Nader. 

“This is also where naturally voluminous waves are your best friend – they work a treat with balancing the arches out,” he adds. That said, “be mindful that if your bob is cut too short, this won’t do your face shape any favours.”

Selena Gomez’s puffy bob

Best for: round-shaped face, straight hair 

“Selena’s adorable face is round,” says Nader, which makes her a perfect candidate for a lob – a hairstyle she’s already tried and loved. 

“The secret with this smaller face shape is always aim for a longer bob length rather than say jaw length,” says Nader. You can style the hair tucked under like Selena’s or straight, just avoid flipping it out at this length or it can look a little…naff. 

A lob also works best on hair that isn’t naturally as textured, as lob-length hair sings with “more of a polished feel.” 

Kendall Jenner’s retro lob

Best for: oval face, thick hair with a natural wave 

Kendall’s long bob, circa 2017, is a great example of how bobs can work for hair with a wave. “Her natural hair texture isn’t fine, and she has a wave, which is like hitting that pot of gold for more playing around with haircuts and styling,” says Nader. 

After the anti-side part propaganda of the last few years, side parts are on the way back in, and Kendall’s bob shows just how good they can look – offsetting the symmetry of her face shape, and adding interest through movement. 

‘When you have that natural wave this actually works a hundred times better than someone with poker straight hair,” says Nader. “That little bit of volume is wonderful for glamming up and showcasing healthy strong hair.