Fresh from New York Fashion Week, where he worked as assistant to the famed Guido Palau on the Ralph Lauren, Marc Jacobs and Marc by Marc Jacobs shows, hairstylist Anthony Nader knows how to get the most out of one’s hair. At his salon, RAW Hair, in Darlinghurst, Anthony has been providing Sydneysiders with stunning locks since 1997.
From the best cut to suit your face shape, to the ‘do-able’ styles from New York Fashion Week, international hair stylist Anthony Nader gives us his insider hair care tips.
TUL: The fall shows are in full swing. Although not all runway trends translate to each of us sitting pretty in the hairdresser’s chair, can you give us your pick of the most adaptable hair trends from fashion week?
Anthony Nader: I’ve noticed this season the look at fashion week is very “do-able”. Take Dianne Von Furstenberg’s show: bold patterned wrap dresses teamed with ballerina buns on the girls, which looked effortless and modern. Victoria Beckham also made headlines with a soft centre part-line and then the length of the hair tucked all under at the back into a ball, which I think glams up your look from day to night in minutes.
Let’s take it home a minute to our very own Dion Lee. The minimal approach and modern shapes of garments at Dion Lee was reflected in models’ hair on his runway with a clean, simple centre part-line with low ponytail; it’s very fashion without spending hours in your bathroom every morning with a handful of products and hot appliances. Who really has time for that?
Jill Stuart really mixed things up, with her girls showcasing beautifully washed shiny tresses that swung from side to side when they walked the runway. I mean, you can’t go wrong with a hair shape like this as it’s in fashion every season, of every year, but most of all looks super healthy and radiant.
TUL: Are there simple haircut do’s and don’ts depending on your face shape?
Anthony: My big no-no has always been that you shouldn’t lop your hair off to jaw length if your facial features are more on the angular, square side. Instead, go for a longer length as it will give the illusion of lengthening.
Fringes, too, are tricky and not for everyone, so be aware if you have a small round face shape, as this will only make your face look even smaller and rounder. My rule for fringes has always been to curve the ends a little longer on the corners, as this frames the face more, where as if it’s just cut in a straight line your fringe can look “helmet like” and very hard looking.
TUL: And what about skin tone? Are there colours one should or shouldn’t avoid depending on skin hue?
Anthony: To ascertain your skin tone, wear a white top and stand in front of your mirror in natural light.
Yellow tones: If you are fair-skinned with freckles or olive skin and your natural hair base colour is warm brown, strawberry blonde or golden blonde, go for hair colours that are more on the chestnut or auburn side, or even dark golden brown. Be aware not to go down the track of golden blondes as this will only highlight your skin tone, which can look a little unhealthy.
Cool tones: The biggest secret here is to warm up your hair colour as much as you can to neutralise this unwanted natural cool tone. Ask your hair colourist for warm hues like honey, caramel and biscuit. By doing this, you will find that your skin tone has changed to a warmer appearance, which is perfect.
TUL: Could you share some advice on how to deal with day-to-day hair problems.
Dry shampoo: It’s the foolproof way to cheat the crowd and let them think that you spend time every morning on your hair. There are so many different colours on the market now, so choose your shade and spray a little on the roots and massage in and your good to go.
Serums: Whether you have a serum or a shine spray, never apply to your roots as it will look like you’ve just been caught in a downpour of rain. I always apply from the mid-length to ends of hair; your hair’s natural oils will take care of the roots.
Bobby pins: Always keep a couple in your bag as you never know when they may come in handy. If you’re having a bad hair day and finding it unruly, it’s easy to scrape back into a messy chignon.
TUL: How do you prevent strays, flyaways and fuzz?
Anthony: The trick I always use, whether I’m in the salon or on a photo shoot, is my good old faithful blush brush: spray a light whisk of hairspray on the ends and then glide over the troubled area. To help, find yourself a shine-based shampoo and conditioner that can moisturise your strands to prevent them from becoming frizzy and dehydrated later in the day.
TUL: Any great solutions for dead-ends?
Anthony: The short answer is get them cut off! Nothing can repair dead-ends, however there is a way you can “mask” your straw-like strands for the time being by adding moisture with your styling products and cutting out as much alcohol in the ingredients of your hair products as possible, swaying more into the organic and natural products.
TUL: How do you get the most out of your shampoo and conditioner?
Anthony: Your products don’t need to be used every day and I’m still amazed by how many woman wash their hair daily. In my view if you’re starting off with the right products and your hair stylist prescribes the right products, you won’t be washing your dollars down the drain so quickly.
TUL: What hair treatments do you recommend?
Protein treatments: If your locks are over-coloured and had too much of the bleach bottle you will find that your strands are crying out for help. This hair needs strengthening, and protein is going to be your hair’s best friend for the time being. Give yourself a protein treatment once a week and follow the instructions carefully and your hair will be on the road to recovery in a month or two.
Moisture treatments: There’s no more luxurious feeling than the smooth creamy ingredients of a moisture treatment and every hair type should be absorbed with moisture at least once a week for hydration. However, for those of you with hair on the finer side, always remember to keep the treatment off your roots as it will only weigh your locks down and you will be fighting to get that oomph if wanted.