Tag Archives: Stella Greenwood

RED HAIR: A COMPLETE GUIDE

Anthony Nader for tomboy beauty

 

Most of my formative years were spent bleaching the shit out of my hair, and then putting coconut oil on it, because I am from Byron Bay. OR applying Henna to make it brown, which is as weird as it sounds. Growing up as a red head in Australia, specifically in a beach side town, was pretty challenging –  the term Ranga, is not exactly a compliment. My ginger disposition also means tanning was/is near impossible, unless of course it is straight from the bottle so, as well as having “interesting” hair colour/s, I spent most of my teens with my naturally pale skin faux tanned a nice shade of Dorito.

Somewhere between growing up, leaving high school, spending time in Paris with cool French boys who didn’t have the localised idea of blonde-hair/blue eyed beauty, AND working in fashion (my red-head muse: Grace Coddington) I fortunately realized that being a red head, isn’t necessarily a bad thing. Actually, it’s pretty fucking great. Wiki tells me that only 2% of the global population have naturally red hair, so I feel compelled to embrace it rather than mask it…

Currently, I am writing this from the chair at Anthony Nader’s RAW salon in Surry Hills, after enthusiastically telling colourist Stella Greenwood, ‘Let’s go redder’.  Below is a complete guide (Stella’s and mine) covering – consultation, choosing your colour, and maintenance – for all my fellow redheads and wannabe redheads.

 

CONSULTATION:

I don’t like to do things by halves. In the same way I approached bleach, henna and fake tan with gusto growing up, I figure if red hair is going to be my thing, it is really going to be my thing. In the briefing phase, Stella and I discussed firing up my locks adding vibrancy while keeping the base as natural as possible.  My advice here: pick a salon/colourist you trust, spend a lot of time in consultation, consider your natural hair colour, eye colour and skin tone, and bring pictures so there is less margin for miscommunication, remember a picture speaks a 1000 words, and adjective is literally just one.

 

CONSIDER YOUR NATURAL HAIR COLOUR:

Picking the right red for you definitely depends on what base level your hair is. According to Stella, “If you’re blonde (or strawberry blonde), its super easy, we just use a lot of golds and coppers and that’s the best way to achieve a natural looking result.” And as close to natural as possible is best: “You wouldn’t pick up a really red colour and put it on a blonde because it will look unnatural. For brunettes, who already have a slight red pigment in their hair, I would recommend a warm chocolate brown tone with copper levels,” she says.

 

AND YOUR SKIN TONE:

“If you have fair skin, you can go as rich as you like but adding a golden touch will help anything looking too harsh (or unnatural). If you have olive skin you can afford to go a bit richer because these tones will blend with your skin tone,” Stella says. When it comes to eye colour, this doesn’t make a huge impact on the colour you choose, however be prepared for a red colour service, to make any eye colour pop, even brown eyes.

 

MAINTAIN IT:

Stella recommends using a colour-safe shampoo, or a shampoo that has has built-in copper and gold tones to help make colour last. To give roots a bit of a lift in between salon visits, DeLorenzo make a shampoo with warmer copper tones, it also works for natural redheads who want some vibrancy but don’t want to commit to colouring it. Also, she warns against over-washing your hair – recommending once or twice a week, tops: “I always say to my clients that having coloured hair is a bit like being sunburnt, you have to moisturise it all the time to protect it and make sure it fades properly.”

Hair colour by Stella Greenwood, RAW Hair, Anthony Nader

By ELLA JANE for tomboybeauty.com

THE ULTIMATE GUIDE TO CHANGING YOUR HAIR COLOUR

Stella Greenwood, head colourist at Raw Anthony Nader salon, is an expert when it comes to colour trends and treatments. She gives her expert tips on transitioning to your dream shade.

kimkardashiab-blonde

How to go from blonde to brunette

Going from blonde to brunette is always a big change for clients who have had light hair for a while and most of the time you can look a little washed out. So to help with this transition I suggest my clients get a tan before venturing to the darker side.
Blonde hair is achieved by using peroxide, which removes pigmentation from your hair. As a result, you have to start by filling the hair with red pigment (the strongest pigment) so it allows the hair to build a foundation for the brown colour to hold and lock in – this ensures it doesn’t go khaki green. After leaving the salon, try not to wash your hair for at least three to four days to let the colour absorb.

How to go from brunette to blonde

Going from blonde to brunette is a big job. It’s very rare this process can all be done in one day. I always like to give my clients at least two to three visits to the salon to allow a healthy journey for the hair to transition (patience is a virtue). Depending on the colour build-up on the hair, it may need to be stripped, followed by a full head of foils. I use a colour rebonder called Olaplex on my clients to maintain the condition of the hair and get failsafe results. When stripping the colour we are actually breaking the colour bonds and then reforming them again, and this is the cause of hair breakage. Olaplex rebonds all the singular hair strands that have been previously broken, allowing no further hair breakage. It will take a few visits to the salon to get that perfect clean blonde you are after, but it’s well worth the wait.

How to go red from brunette

A change from brunette to red is an easier process. Dark hair has red pigments and the first thing that happens when we strip the hair back is to see that red colour shining through, which is a great advantage for someone who wants to go red. After the hair is stripped, I’ll apply a rich red colour to enhance the red tones. Olaplex is also mixed in the colour to fill any broken bonds.

How to go from blonde to red

Blondes can achieve this look easily because when you fill blonde hair you always apply red pigment to it. After mixing up my desired level and tone of red colour, I apply it with Olaplex (always). Keep in mind that red colour washes out easily, so try not to wash your hair too often. You may have to pay a visit to the salon for a toner after three to four weeks to make your colour look richer.

As seen on elle.com.au

 

WHAT IT’S REALLY LIKE GOING FROM PEROXIDE BLONDE TO BRUNETTE

Say goodbye to having approximately 5 billion foils on your head – #winner.

before-after-shot

I’d been fakin’ it as a blonde for as long as I could remember. My natural hair’s mousey brown (and sort of shit), so aged 14 or 15, I started going cray cray on the highlights.

Remember when this was cool?

25-Kelly-Clarkson

Anyhoo, it’s cost me heaps over the years. Both at the expense of my bank balance (welp), and at the expense of my poor, damaged, peroxide-ridden barnet (welp welp).

This was bad enough living in my native Britain where it was sunny approximately two days a year (might be a slight exaggeration), but when I moved to Australia last year, the daily dose of sun hit my head like a burning wrath of fire (funny that) that was hell-bent on drying out the little condition it had. Sidenote: the vitamin D is fantastic for general wellbeing/happiness – I’m not being ungrateful, honest.

Working in the Cosmo offices, it’s pretty much a given we’re 100% open with each other, whether that be discussing what we’re having for dinner, who we’re having for dinner (jks), and yup, our appearances. So I wasn’t offended in the slightest when Online Beauty Writer Amelia told me I had to go back to the dark side because it would look a lot better. She even hooked me up with the daddy of all salons in Sydney, RAW by Anthony Nader.

Before going in, friends told me to fake tan like crazy because I’d feel really pale and I had to make sure my brows were on fleek too.

So I walked into the salon looking a hawt combo of this:

before-shot

There, I was greeted by the lovely Colour Director, Stella, who was great at putting things in layman’s terms for a doofus like me and she didn’t even judge me (out loud) for the shabby state of affairs that was my ‘do.

4pm. So, to business. Stella explained that blonde hair has zero pigments in it. Nada. It’s because the pigments get blown out when stripped by our good old friend Mr Peroxide. She told me that she was going to apply a red tint first. Gulp. Warm colours like red have strong pigments so she basically had to coat my hair in red as a sort of filler before applying the brown. If she put the brown straight on the bleached hair, it’d go an attractive khaki colour. Yoiks.

4:45pm. Once the red was applied (a darker shade at the top, lighter on the ends), Stella combed it through and I was all red hair, don’t care. Well, for about half an hour. She then dried it ready for the brown application.

dye-1

dye-2

5:15pm. Next came the brown. With a secret little weapon called Olaplex. Which (if reports believe) is basically The Holy Grail in hair colouring and should be used by everyone in the world.

Olaplex prevents your hair from breaking and repairs damaged strands by linking the bonds back together again. And it’s especially beneficial for chemically coloured hair given that hair bonds are broken during chemical services. Kim Kardashian is a fan. Everyone loves it. It makes your hair so fancy. It probably eats caviar and sips Dom Pérignon.

olaplex

dye-3

6pm. I wasn’t sat in front of a mirror while I waited which was probs a good thing given it would be quite a drastic change (I did manage to take an alien-looking selfie). But I can’t tell you how friggin’ refreshing it was to be sitting without approximately 5,042 foils in my head. Anyone who dyes their hair blonde should be able to relate to that!

6:30-ish-pm. I was a bit nervous while I was getting the colour rinsed off. Y’know, the big reveal could induce a total White Chicks moment in the middle of a ~fancy~ salon.

white-chicks

Nah, totally trusted Stella! And in less than 3 hours, I’d gone from white, damaged and bristle, to caramel-y brown, softer locks. Yay!

dye-4

It was a bit weird catching sight of myself in the mirror for the next few days but I quickly realised, blondes don’t always have more fun.

And guess what? I got to take home a bottle of the elixir of life Olaplex which is to be used once a week on damp hair before shampooing and conditioning. It makes your hair feel super soft so I can see why everyone and their dog is raving about it.

Altogether, going peroxide blonde to brunette was pretty breezy. And being the laz-ee girl I am, I’m looking forward to minimum upkeep – that’s the deal now I don’t have roots…right? And when that pesky peroxide decides to shine through, that’s also a win because, #BRONDE.

before-and-after

Here are 5 key things I took away from my experience to consider before you make the switch:

1. I know I was joking earlier with the whole feeling pale AF thing but I caked on bronzer like nobody’s business for at least a week. Looking washed-out will probs be a concern.

2. I didn’t know what the expression ‘makes your eyes pop’ was all about until it actually happened – weey. So you may want to consider experimenting with accentuating those peepers some more. I went heavy on the kohl and liked the results.

3. I felt like I could be more daring in the fash dept. For instance, I would *usually* steer away from reds and bright pinks (personal preference) but don’t really feel any colour is off-limits now. Also, grey is good. Weird.

4. The dye will run down your plughole when you’re showering and you will freak out. And yes, this means the colour is a’ fading. But you’re a colour chameleon now, own it!

5. Prepare for people not to recognise you. And prepare to feel a teeny tiny bit offended if you’re told by basically everyone (in my case) that it looks better. Whatevs, guys.

A massive thanks to Anthony Nader, Stella Greenwood, William Jamison and Taylor Mascherin.

By Lorna Gray for cosmopolitan.com.au